13 September 2025

To Moreton Telegraph Station

Leaving Lotus Bird Lodge was a wee bit of a wrench. We had been so well looked after, and the wildlife was abundant.

Most of the day was devoted to travelling. There was still a good long way to reach Cape York itself.


We stopped in Coen. Not a major centre, even by local standards. The population at the last census was 320. The main reason to stop was probably to have a coffee break, but there was a small museum and an active bird population.



What a great name for a museum


History in bottles


Unsophisticated humour.


Before we set off, Bill made a list of ten bird species he would really like to see. Coen produced one of them. Alas, it was the only one of the ten we saw in the wild.




The Sahul Sunbird (until recently named the Olive-backed Sunbird) is a small nectar-feeder that occupies much the same ecological niche as a hummingbird.


Galahs are found all over Australia


Another hour's driving saw us lunching at the Archer River Roadhouse. It occurred to us to wonder how the Peninsula Development Road generated enough custom to support the business, but then there is no competition anywhere near.



Another example of apostrophe abuse.


We suspect it is an old sign and no longer enforced. There were no campers, guests or dogs tied up.


Our destination for the night was Weipa (rhymes with creeper). It exists because of the bauxite resource, which is shipped from Weipa to aluminium smelters elsewhere in Australia. The smelter in NZ was not mentioned. More posh accommodation at the Albatross Bay Resort.



Sunset from the resort.


The main attraction of the tour's Day 7 was a cruise. To fill in time we were taken to Rocky Point, where the sea shore was populated by wading birds and the sky by terns.



Great Egrets usually pace slowly through the shallows when looking for food.  This one took a much more active approach and is seen here pouncing on a small fish.


A Striated heron


A Lesser Crested Tern


There was time for some shopping; the tour recognises that we wrinklies need to pop in to a pharmacy now and then.



No royalties, alas.


The cruise was described in the itinerary as “on the Embley River”. It would be more accurate to say “across the Embley River from Evans Landing and up Robets Creek”. We were promised wildlife, including big salt water crocodiles. It certainly delivered. Mud banks in the wide Embley River were home to a couple of large crocodiles. Robets Creek was much narrower, though still a very navigable mangrove-lined waterway. More crocodiles had their resting places here, and many water birds. In addition to those illustrated below, we saw a Sacred Kingfisher, oystercatchers and stilts.



The tour boat returning from its earlier cruise.



4 metres of reptile on an Embley River mud bank.


They were not noticeably smaller amongst the mangroves of Robets Creek.



A Great Egret hunting in more typical style


A Great-billed Heron


There's only one species of pelican in Australia, the Australian Pelican.


Not just water birds.  This is a Brahminy Kite.


Yet another Great Egret, this time in flight.


Sacred Ibises


Robets Creek is used as an anchorage by a few commercial fishing vessels. We wondered whether the wrecks we saw were the result of tropical storms, but the creek is fairly well sheltered, or as a dumping ground for unwanted vessels.





Back at Evans Landing a flock of unfamiliar birds wheeled overhead. Ashley, the Aussie birder recognised them at once as frigate birds. Determining which species they were was not easy.



Almost certainly a Great Frigate Bird


Then it was on to Moreton Telegraph Station, now an Outback Spirit lodge, and some more cosseting.





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